Samudra manthan

Samudra churning or Samudra manthan is the Hindu myth about the churning of the sea of milk. Using the great naga wrapped around mount Mandhara on top of Lord Vishnu in the form of a tortoise, the devas and demons cooperated in churning the sea to achieve the ultimate prize, the nectar of immortality, Amrita. Even though the Amrita was supposed to be shared by both the devas and demons, Lord Vishnu used trickery to deny the demons the nectar. Embolden by the effects of the amrit, the gods would go on to defeat the demons. You can see a sculptural representation of this myth in the foyer of Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok.

Although this is meant to symbolize a spiritual exercise, it could also be used as an analogy for the political process and this especially true in Thai politics. For all their good intentions, politicians must ultimately resort of deceit, trickery and misrepresentation, to achieve their goals and win the hearts and minds of their constituents. We hope to use this space as a forum to make some sense of what it is all about and in the spirit of reconciliation find out what it is the Thai people really want after the election.

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02 July 2011

Day 5 - Lights! Camera! Monsoon!


It is probably my own bad karma for insulting the rain spirits in my last post but yesterday was wet. I’m talking vengeful, relentless, change-my-underwear-when-I-got home wet. But more about the state of my underwear later..

Yesterday was the last day for campaigning and both parties had ordered massive rallies for their constituents. Peau Thai at Rajamangala Stadium and the Democrats at the Royal Plaza. Because of ease of travel I decided to check out the Democrats’ final push for votes.

Traffic was so dense around the rally that no Taxis or tuks tuks was willing to take me in there. The only way to get through the traffic was literally, on the backseat of a motorcycle weaving in and out of cars and buses. Even then the direct road was completely blockaded by hundreds of smiling but determined Yellow shirts waving and shouting ‘Vote No’ at the oncoming traffic.

The final 500 metres was on foot, and in the pouring rain. The heavens opened up, sending thousands of democrats supporters scrambling for shelter and grabbing whatever improvised cover they can. I saw cardboard, straw mats, jackets, banners, even plastic bags worn over the head in a vain attempt to stay dry. Hundreds of supporters turned back but the faithful stayed on, brandishing umbrellas or squeezed in together under cover. I found myself underneath one of the big screens hiding out with the technical crews giving the politicians on stage the rock star treatment.

Despite the downpour the vibe at the rally was positive, fanatical even. Cries of ‘Ahbisit!’ and ‘Number 10’ echoed across the plaza. Especially during the awkward 5 minutes when the main stage sound went out just as Abhisit himself was about to speak and the tech crews around me rushed out into the soaking rain to fix the technical hiccup. Ahbisit was soon back onstage outlining his party’s policies to help the poor and working class, as well as reminding the audience of the evils of Thaksin. The way he was going on, it felt like he was campaigning against Thaksin himself and not his younger sister, which is perhaps not far from the truth.

Eventually it was time to head off and in the confusion of the mass exodus I ended up heading in the opposite direction of where I should have going. By the time I came to my senses I found myself in inner city Bangkok which was still lively despite the torrential rain. Cold and starving I was relieved to find some food vendors (not that they are rare) and bought myself the best barbecue pork skewers and sticky rice I’ve ever had, though being soaked for 3 hours probably effected my judgment, now that I think about it the skewers weren't even warm.

I stumbled along for a few more blocks before running into a high school student getting rejected by a taxi. I had been looking for a taxi myself and so I ran up to wave the taxi but the driver didn’t see me. I then turned to the boy and asked him why the taxi wouldn’t let him on and apparently the traffic was so bad heading to the BTS (monorail) station that it wasn’t worth his time. I was also trying to find the BTS station myself and so Kane and I joined forces. Just then Kane’s mobile phone rang, his ring tone was Mario’s theme song. Kane had 3 friends waiting undercover for him to get them a taxi but apparently a bus had come that would take them to the station. Kane and I started running but we just missed it, Kane slapped the side of the bus in frustration as it rolled out. Mario’s theme song came on again, Kane’s friends was on that bus. Kane then he had an idea. He told me to follow and we started running down a dark alley that commonly crisscrossed inner city blocks in Thailand. These alleys are narrow and only meant for shop keepers to access the back of their shops, where they also lived, and certainly not meant sprinting through. Dodging mangy dogs and amused locals eating dinner, Kane told me that we were going to try to cut the bus off as it rounded the block. I was glad I’ve been keeping up my cardio as it was a good 300 meters of puddles and slippery concrete before we reached the other side and leapt onto the bus. Home bound at last we relaxed and chatted about his schools and laughed about the rain, which stopped the moment we got on the bus. Lousy night of shooting but at least I made a friend.

01 July 2011

Day 4 - Stormy Skies




It’s the wet season in Thailand. So far it’s been rain and lightning for the last 3 days here in Bangkok. Not that it has been torrential pouring, more like frequent but brief spells. The real storm of course is the political one that is going to reach a climax within the next few days. I spoke with Mr. Chavarong Limpattamapanee, the President of the Thai Journalists Association to discuss a few possible post-election scenarios. Essentially it comes down whether the populist Peua Thai Party lead by the photogenic Yingluck will get enough support to have a majority government, that is, winning more than 250 of the possible 500 seats. Peua Thai is already expected to win the most seats, but that’s out of 40 (that’s right 40) political parties, and many of the minor parties are more likely to form a coalition government with Abhisit’s democrats.

Being the most popular party doesn’t necessarily mean Yingluck will be Prime Minister, it would more likely mean a hung parliament and some serious negotiations in which the minor parties will play a vital role.

Peau Thai getting the majority would mean the smoothest road to government, unless of course the army decides otherwise and throws another one of their world famous coups – or the Yellow shirts rising up in mass protest like the last time the Reds won.

The latter scenario is unlikely as the Yellow shirts have fragmented into near irrelevance this time round. Their ‘No Vote’ campaign (pictured) is amusing but is seen as unhelpful by most of the population. Rightly so, the yellows asking people to vote 'No' (as opposed to not voting at all) to express their anger at the government is not going to solve Thailand's problems.

The army though remains the real threat to Yingluck and the Reds. So far they have said they will do nothing and respect the law. The problem is that the law and the interpretations of it is a point of contention it itself.

30 June 2011

Bangkok Post : PM refuses challenge by Hun Sen

Bangkok Post : PM refuses challenge by Hun Sen
Just more political grandstanding by the PM. When is he going to take the high road in this election instead of trying to appeal to a fringe element that will not support him anyway.

Bangkok Post : The real meaning of reconciliation

Bangkok Post : The real meaning of reconciliation
At last a real discussion on what it will take to move forward.  Let us hope that those that are running for office are listening. 

How to interpret the ‘no vote’ in the Thai election? | Asian Correspondent

How to interpret the ‘no vote’ in the Thai election? | Asian Correspondent
This campaign by PAD is more evidence that they have migrated to the fringe of the political discourse.  How can they be taken seriously?  They have even abandoned their own political party, reasoning that anyone involved in the political process in corrupt.  

PM blames Thaksin, Hun Sen for conflict

PM blames Thaksin, Hun Sen for conflict
Is the PM so fearful of losing and desperate that he needs to resort to such tactics. This is such a wildly ridiculous accusation that it will be surprising if anyone takes him seriously.

Move to quit UN panel stalled

Move to quit UN panel stalled
This hasty decision has a way of being rectified. Further proof that this is part of a larger political debate not a cultural issue like it should be.

Govt urged to delist World Heritage site

Govt urged to delist World Heritage site
Cooler heads need to prevail on this situation. This is not about money or tourism but the cultural preservation of heritage sites. It is also not a political situation and has no effect on the border dispute which is being handled by the International Court. Besides as it turns out, the WHC and UNESCO never agree to any management plan and where willing to hold off on any decision.

NYT op-ed: Election is about Thailand’s failure to agree on what constitutes democracy | Asian Correspondent

NYT op-ed: Election is about Thailand’s failure to agree on what constitutes democracy | Asian Correspondent
As a follow up to the links in the last two posts here is an editorial from the New York Times on a similar subject.

Middle Class, Inequality, and Democracy – Part II | Asian Correspondent

Middle Class, Inequality, and Democracy – Part II | Asian Correspondent
This article is in two parts and gives a very accurate representation of the state of Thai politics.

Middle Class, Inequality, and Democracy | Asian Correspondent

Middle Class, Inequality, and Democracy | Asian Correspondent

Election outlook in the deep South

Election outlook in the deep South
What is more interesting is what happens after the election and on a grassroots level, what can they expect from their representatives.

29 June 2011

Day 2 - City of Angels


Perspective is a funny thing. From the 21st floor of my father’s apartment, Bangkok is calm, perhaps almost serene. Traffic is a distant hum and the smell and the smog barely registers as I look out across the vista of gleaming skyscrapers and rusting slums. Nothing remarkable about this, Asia is a continent of dramatic contrasts and inequality. What foreigners do always remark upon is how happy the Thai people are, Thailand, land of smiles, land of the free.

And no doubt the Thai people have a lot to smile about, our borders are secure, our economy is in recovery and our food is friggin’ fantastic.

There is a profound sense of order in Thai society, a strict hierarchy that keeps people in their place but with just enough wiggle room for the talented and determined to rise above their class. Still, the richest 20% of the population owns 70 times more wealth than the bottom 20%.

The crisis with Red and Yellow is a class struggle. What many of the Yellow shirts don’t seem to understand or acknowledge is that the Reds are a symptom, not the cause of the country’s unrest. Thaksin the exiled may have lit the fire but the fuel has been building up for a long time.

From where I am standing, high above the city looking down, I can see how many of Elites can forget this. I can’t help but think of the Thai Buddhist’s idea of heaven. In traditional Thai culture, enough good karma will cause you to be born in heaven as a Deva (angel), to be a Deva is to live in paradise and have all your desires fulfilled. Being a Deva is better than being human in every single way, except angels can’t reach enlightenment. Never suffering means remaining in blissful state of ignorance and never having to understand the reality of the human condition. The Thai name for Bangkok is ‘Krung Thep’, literally,‘City of Angels’.

So what now? I am certainly not naïve enough to think that every Elite is a heartless snob and every red shirt a simple poor honest farmer from upcountry. Many understand that for Thailand to move forward we must move towards greater equality and Thaksin and his followers have certainly inspired (if not directly ordered) some pretty atrocious actions that have increased the divide, not close them. Bridges aren't completely burnt though, the main vibe I'm getting from the population is simply a calm anticipation. There are talks of talking, it's not much, but it's enough for most people to cling on to.

28 June 2011

Siam Voices by Siam Voices | Asian Correspondent

Siam Voices by Siam Voices | Asian Correspondent
It is clear that not much is being done and accusations are being thrown about by both sides. It could be the findings could well destroy lives on both sides and that maybe to seek justice may not be in the best interest in reconciliation but only if it is about moving forward and healing the divide rather than protecting the guilty.

27 June 2011

Lucas in transit

My associate on this exploration of Thailand and democracy, Lucas, is on his way to Thailand.  While he was enduring a long layover in KL, he sent me a few of the thoughts he was having about this journey to post on our blog:

Day 0 – in transit

A quick math has revealed that I am going to be spending twice as long waiting in airports as I am going to be in flight.  I am now pointlessly debating whether an extra couple of hundred dollars was really worth losing a day to transit. Ever the optimist though I’m convincing myself that an overnight stop in Kuala Lumpur might just be what I need before taking on Bangkok in the full swing of yet another controversial election.

To pass the time I guess I’d like to give you little background about myself and the situation. I was born in Thailand but have spent the last 20 years of my life in Australia. I’m on a tourist visa, my Thai vocabulary is the equivalent of a seven year old’s, same goes for my tolerance for chillies and right now I’m trying to remember all the customs and traditions taken very seriously by all true Thais.

Foremost amongst the faux pas foreigners are prone to making is to insult the king or the royal institution. Stepping on Money, showing the bottom of your feet to his image and speaking ill of him could land you 15 years behind bars. Heck, just me writing about it could get me in trouble.

So let me just clarify my position that I love the King and what he represents, and right now, just as it has been for all my life, he is the stabilising factors in Thailand. Foreigners have a hard time understanding why Thais revered his Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej. They are more accustom to the tabloid scandals of the British royal family and the constant barrage of jokes directed at them. Things are different in Thailand though, a combination of propaganda, punitive laws  and the fact that he is actually a good guy (he even played the sax with Bill Clinton once) means that he is practically a living saint.

For all his popularity though, it is fair to questions just how much power he actually has to influence the squabbling politicians and there remains the issue of his age and health. Few Thais are willing to contemplate a country without him, but as Buddhist we must be prepared to face this inescapable eventuality.

Like me, Thailand is in transit. Change is coming and no matter how strongly the old institutions will strive to stem it, it is inevitable. For the gloss and postcard images, Thailand is a developing country, and right now we are reaching a crucial turning point.  The exploited masses are rising up, they need a voice, maybe they’ll find it in the exiled Prime Minister, or his younger sister who is currently the favourite to win the election. Maybe the current ruling government will stay in power by winning them over. No matter what happens, it would be interesting to see if they would really be listened to this time.

Temple to remain time bomb

Temple to remain time bomb
Another issue that will complicate any move taken by the new government.

Bangkok Post : Government to pull out of WHC

Bangkok Post : Government to pull out of WHC
It seems as though Thailand could have gotten the delay it was asking for if their representatives were not hung up on semantics of the WHC proposal. Their ultimatum forced the hand of the WHC into excepting the Cambodian proposal. This decision to pull out of the WHC will ultimately have a detrimental affect on the preservation of Thailand's own history and culture.

Bangkok Post : PAD supports Suwit's decision

Bangkok Post : PAD supports Suwit's decision
Any decision that gains the support of PAD has got to be suspect. Given their history of xenophobia and extreme nationalism, this move could ultimately hurt moves to preserve heritage sites within Thailand. The border dispute not withstanding, this political and provocative move was one that required more diplomacy and being less reactive.

Bangkok Post : Democrats offer amnesty plan

Bangkok Post : Democrats offer amnesty plan
Another party jumps on the amnesty bandwagon but this should do little to heal the on-going divisions in Thai society given the provocative nature of the rest of their campaign.

Bangkok Post : Bombs, gunmen kill and maim in South

Bangkok Post : Bombs, gunmen kill and maim in South
So far other than a cursory trip to campaign in the South, none of the parties have address the recent violence in this region.

Abhisit's 'special treatment' at forum upsets other participants

Abhisit's 'special treatment' at forum upsets other participants
This was a good opportunity to address issues and discern the differences among the parties but because of arrogance and lack of respect that the Democrats show for other parties, coupled with the petty bickering and whinging displayed by the other parties in response, here was another fail attempt at open political discussion.

'No policy to give Thaksin amnesty'

'No policy to give Thaksin amnesty'
Maybe Thaksin doesn't have such a firm handle on his sister.

Bangkok Post : Parties dismiss Democrat 'revelations'

Bangkok Post : Parties dismiss Democrat 'revelations'
This hardly constitutes a move toward reconciliation.  Just more political grandstanding and provocations by the major parties.